I was ridiculously excited when Brendan invited me to join the Ramblers for this adventure, and we traveled countless miles to crisscross Russia and present our program at five summer camps. The following is a post I wrote for the group’s blog about our experience at the Gubkin camp. There are many more stories, pictures, videos, songs, bios, teaching materials, etc available online at www.eslfolk.com. Enjoy!

WHERE’S GUBKIN?

One of the best things about this trip has been getting to see towns in parts of Russia that tourists don’t typically visit. At the camps, people are often curious and ask us about the other cities we’re traveling to on the ESL Folk Tour. Whenever we run down the itinerary, there’s always one place that gets the same response: “Wait, Gubkin? Where’s that?!”

with Elena, our trusty camp leader

I was excited to check out this city that so few people seem to have heard of, and waited with no small amount of anticipation by the door of our train compartment with the Ramblers and our gear. We arrived in the middle of the night and our “train mom” had urged us to be prepared to get off quickly since the train would only be stopping for 2 minutes at the Gubkin station before pressing on. We grabbed our bags and instruments and were bundled off the train, and my harp and I fell directly into the arms of Elena, our camp coordinator.

harp sandwich

Elena and her family helped us lug our stuff over to the hotel where we were booked in four single rooms for the first few nights – an unexpected luxury after so much time spent cramped in platzkart bunks and squashed under my harp in the backseats of taxis. We were each handed a key with an ornate swan chain and ascended some sparkling stone diaz-style steps to the chimes of a thousand fire alarm bells set off by sportsmen surreptitiously smoking in their rooms. After some refreshing showers, we collapsed into our fluffed pillows for a few hours sleep.

David Fay, Sarah, and the Ramblers in front of the biggest hole I've ever seen

In the morning, we took a walk to explore this mysterious city. It turns out that Gubkin is a relatively young city, founded just seventy years ago, and built around an enormous iron mine – a vast, gaping crater seven kilometers wide that we visited with some guides from the camp. The town is beautifully laid out, with charming neighborhood apartment complexes each with their own playground and lots of trees. There was a neat park with a mining display and statues celebrating the town’s history and mining practices.

Matt plays with a handicap

We reviewed some new songs, got our materials ready for the next day’s teaching, and then prepared ourselves for the U.S.A. vs. Slovenia world cup match by playing pick-up soccer in the school fields with some of the campers. It was a “no parents, no rules” game that involved all sorts of inventive goal keeping and ball stealing.

The Ramblers practice the Camp Rainbow dance routine

The next morning, we were treated with a visit from David Fay from the English Language Office of the American Embassy in Moscow and his lovely sister Sarah (We’ve been tossing around the idea of re-naming our group the David Fay Tribute Band). They joined us for a rousing set of morning performances by the Rainbow Summer Camp teams. After being serenaded by the four camp groups, who had rehearsed songs for us, we opened up our introduction to American Folk Music with some songs of our own.

Jordan & Brendan getting their teach on

I thought that performing live song examples as we talked about their background was an nice way to break up the opening lecture, especially since listening to a long block of talk can be super exhausting for students who are learning English as a second language. The kids  seemed to especially enjoy an experimental mash-up of jigs in E minor that Brendan and I tried out when we were discussing immigrants from the British Isles and their influence on American culture and music.

the opening lecture/concert

After our presentation/concert, Matt played some samples of traditional folk music from around the world and the students had to try and guess what country each song came from. Brendan had the chance to visit Tuva with some other Fulbrighters this year and brought back some incredible music from that region. It’s always funny when the Tuvan throat-singing track comes on during this game, because none of the kids ever guess that this music is actually from their own country! I think it’s great to bring up Russia’s cultural diversity in these English camps, because it lets us shift the focus off of all the questions we get about life in America and remind the campers about how cool and interesting and vast their own nation is!

with new friends

One of the most remarkable highlights of this trip for me has been getting to experience Russian hospitality. It seems that every camp we visit adopts us Ramblers, and this was especially true at Gubkin. When we asked Elena for a recommendation of a local restaurant to grab some dinner, she responded by inviting us over to her house for some homemade okroshka, a traditional Russian cold soup made from chopped vegetables and hard-boiled egg with a broth of kvass – a beverage made (as I understand it) by straining water through dark rye bread and allowing it to ferment slightly. This is one of our favorite refreshing drinks, but I’d never had it in a soup before!

our family dinner

After a mere two days in the hotel, we were also invited to stay in Elena’s sister-in-law’s parents’ house, which was a welcome respite for both our budgets and souls. Turns out that after living in such close quarters for so long, those single hotel rooms were starting to feel pretty lonely! We were thrilled to do some laundry and cook a wonderful “family” meal, which we ate beneath the approving (I hope) gaze of an impressive collection of Russian icons.

Ramblers reacting to some local press

On our last night, we were also invited out to a dacha for some sensationally delicious shashlik (Russian bar-b-q)! We enjoyed the evening sun, homemade pickles, samagon, and – in addition to the scrumptious chicken and pork skewers – some of the best grilled carp I’ve ever tasted; a veritable feast! With Masha, Olya, Nastia, and Elena among the guests, the feeling was of a family reunion cook-out. Brendan wrote an experimental shashlik ballad on a makeshift guitar, and we finished off the night with some more crazy, hybrid ball games.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZN3l6UW8UMg&hl=en&fs=1]
The morning came too soon, and with it the time for us to leave for Ufa. Our goodbyes were heartfelt and teary, but we took with us many memories – and some sweet camp T-shirts the campers signed!

The next time someone asks me where Gubkin is, I’ll just point to my heart.

-Gillian

Group shot!

Sorry I’ve been so terrible about updating this blog – I’ve been on trains for thousands of miles with little internet access this past month. I promise I’ll post more later, but I just wanted to put up a quick note letting you know what I’m up to for the month of June!

I’m currently traveling with a group of musicians to summer camps in Russia, teaching kids English through American folk music! This is our schedule:

June 5th – 8th: Elista
June 9th -14th: Rostov-na-donu
June 16th -19th: Gubkin
June 20th-23rd: Ufa
June 25th-28th: Samara

I stole this expert map from the eslfolk.com site 8)

I’ll have pretty limited web access, but we’re keeping a group blog up on the project’s website: www.eslfolk.com It’s been a really exciting trip so far – can’t wait to share more pics, vids, news with you next time I’ve got wifi

Much love,
Gillian

Here’s a summary of the last month in installments of 140 characters or less:

April 12, 2010

catching the overnight train from Hong Kong. Gonna miss those cappuccinos at Café Corridor.

scenes from the train window: a lone telephone pole askew in a lake. rows of plastic bottles demarking a net. scarlet brick factory kiln.

scenes from the train: a fussing wife wiping sleep-sand from her husband’s eyes with a blue-striped washcloth. the hock and spit over a washroom sink.

April 13, 2010

ah, Squat Toilet – how could I forget your keyhole charms in the oasis of Hong Kong luxury? moving train adds extra element of thrill & skill.

To the pushy lady at Shanghai station: I know you’re old & tiny, but I swear to god, if you shove your luggage cart into the back of my knees one more time, I’ll eat you.

Well, hello...

April 14, 2010

Had to buy copies of this wonderfully homoerotic poster celebrating “10,000 years of Sino-Asian Friendship & Brotherhood” at the Shanghai Propaganda Museum today.

And how could I pass up an original vinyl of the classic “Our Great Motherland is Abloom with Flowers”?

April 15, 2010

Loved the fishmonger who was serenading his fish with a flute at the market this morning. Is it crazy to say they seemed to thrash less? How do fish hear?

Was slightly alarmed at woman cleaning her earwax with tip of large, sharp knife. More alarmed by notion that she cuts enormous tofu blocks beside her with same blade.

April 16, 2010

Got to stand behind the DJ booth & watch all the knob fiddling at LoGo. Felt my cool factor exploding by association. Is this how rock stars feel everyday?

April 17, 2010

Little Punk

Tonight at Yuyintang: Stegosaurus? EP release with Boys Climbing Ropes, Rainbow Danger Club, and Dragon Pizza.

Boys Climbing Ropes – not sure I’d listen to a CD of this, but frontwoman Little Punk is a tiny ball of intensity. Worth catching them live just to see her crazy eyes.

Dennis Ming Nichols & Jesse Munson of Rainbow Danger Club

Rainbow Danger Club: all expats, but solid, mostly instrumental experimental rock. Rhythmic structures hint at members’ jazz-backgrounds. Dug the bowed bass & drumstick guitar rattling.

Dragon Pizza: These boys made it through all of 2 songs before going shirtless. Japanese bass-player goes cross-eyed during intense shreds. Pretty lighthearted bunch for a metal band.

Dragon Pizza

April 18, 2010

Stopped 4x for photos w/ Chinese tourists while walking on The Bund today. Got used to this in India & Indonesia, but surprised to have the experience in cosmopolitan Shanghai.

April 19, 2010

field research for songwriting: tried bone marrow at a hot pot restaurant – at once surprisingly creamy & stringy. Check out quasi-related lyrics

there are many things you can cook in a hot pot

April 20, 2010

Dammit, Rilke! Now I’m really, truly, actually going to have to learn German.

April 21, 2010

Found: decent bagels in Shanghai! Gotta say though, this is one thing North America just does better. Also dirty martinis.

April 22, 2010

Spent the afternoon with awesome Ada, a certified Chinese tea ceremony master (5 year program!), who taught me how to serve green tea in her studio. Days like this are why we travel.

April 23, 2010

Wuji EP Release Concert at Yuyintang shut down by police w/o explanation save “Expo.” Went to hastily organized house concert, but worrisome

Wuji regroups at a friend's house

April 24, 2010

Tried frogs’ legs twice this week. More like shellfish than chicken in texture. Devilishly tricky to grab with chopsticks. Reminded of Triplets of Bellville.

Yuyintang open as bar, but still closed for music. Pinkberry concert cancelled. Police confiscated computer & sound equipment. Check out article by Shanghai blogger, Jake Newby

April 25, 2010

Shanghai & Mumbai have approx. the same population, but Shanghai has ~7000 people/km2 & Mumbai has over 22,000. The feeling is v. diffirent.

model of Shanghai at the Urban Planning Museum

April 26, 2010

Got to hitch a ride with press to soft opening of Obama nightclub. Gawdy, gold, & ginormous. Apparently nothing to do with Obama save publicity stunt. Cheers to the go-go dancer on stilts.

April 27, 2010

Great chat with Sean Leow this morning. Check out Neocha.com, & edge.neocha.com – online network of China’s creative communities (art, music, film, etc…)

April 28, 2010

Playing a show at OZNZ tonight. Check out urbanatomy.com listing by the lovely Leslie Jones – 1st harp joke in print I’ve laughed at in a long time.

April 29, 2010

My Shanghai hosts set the bar ridiculously high. How am I ever going to leave them? Good thing I accidentally missed the train to Beijing & had to stay on an extra night.

Heading over to The Revitalization of Shanghai Rock show. It’s Emo Pop Punk night like whoa, but happy to celebrate the fact that Yuyintang is open for live music again.

Yuyintang

May 1, 2010

Welcome to Beijing, where breathing the air is like smoking 70 cigarettes a day. Hang on Siberia, imma commin soon.

Taxi was too big for the roads, so arrived in forbidden city with self, harp, & bags in rickshaw – velvet & fringe on top. Like the surrey in Oklahoma!

May 2, 2010

camping out at Midi

Midi Modern Music Festival Day 2 highlights: The Swamp, Xiao He, Voodoo Kungfu, Asaf Avidan & the Mojos.

Made it to the right bus stop, then followed likely-looking T-shirts to festival entrance at Haidian Park.

Voodoo Kungfu: um, Mongolians + bodypaint + deathmetal? Yes, please! Love a band that includes “backing-growls” & horsehead cello in their line-up.

Asaf Avidan says he’s from Israel, but he must have just touched down from Mercury. That voice cannot have come from this planet.

May 3, 2010

Epic feat of foreign public transport mastery achieved in finding my way to Strawberry Festival at Tongzhou Canal Park. 3 Metro changes, 1 bus, & nearly 3 hours ONE WAY.

Modern Sky Strawberry Festival Day 3 highlights: Fruit VC (highly danceable + onstage foam shower?) Wang Yue & Hang on the Box (All-girl band, sounds a little like The Ting Tings)

Gotta hand it to the Chinese rockers – even the bands with mediocre music put on one hell of a live performance. So much energy!

getting myself a custom-made shirt

May 4, 2010

Overheard: heated fight between drunk couple. Chopsticks were thrown, but no injuries except eardrums.

May 5, 2010

Still haven’t gotten used to seeing open slit-back trousers on the wee ones here. Torn between adorable factor of baby butts & gross-out spectacular of free expulsion.

May 6, 2010

Found myself playing harp in hostel bar w/ 2 handsome Russian ballet dancers, sweet Irish couple, Thomas from Beijing, & my gregarious Canadian bunkmates last night.

tent at Haidian Park

If you’d like to receive updates like this once I cross the border to Russia, follow me at www.twitter.com/gilliangrassie

First up, tonight I’ll be joining Ranjit Barot on stage at Blue Frog.

Friday, I’ll be performing with Indian fusion band Mithaavin as a part of the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival.

(Details on the SHOWS page)

The Bombay Elektrik Project gigs at Cafe Goa got some nice coverage in the blogosphere. Check out what folks had to say at desictritics, indiecision, and the Mumbai Mirror.

The Bombay Elektrik Project in association with UTV World Movies is hosting an evening of film and music at Cafe Goa in Bandra on Wednesday, January 20th.

Featuring performances by yours truly and Mumbai’s own Dischordian (nominated Most Promising Indie band of the Year by India’s leading indie-music blog, indiecision.com), followed by a screening of La Femme Nikita (yes, really), the night is sure to be an overload of awesome. And it’s free!

Come on the early side to enjoy Cafe Goa’s yummy food and martinis.

January 20: Mumbai, India
Bombay Elektrik Project & UTV World Movies present
Gillian Grassie & Dischordian
8:30 – 11:30 PM / FREE
Cafe Goa
Agnelo House
Off St. John de Baptist Road
near Mount Mary Steps
Bandra

“Diese Frau ist wirklich Megaklasse. Die Kombination aus filigran gespielter Harfe zu einer Stimme, die sich mit weltklass Stars vergleichen lässt, und einer Titelauswahl, die einem jeden Zuhörer den Mund vor Staunen offen stehen lässt. Musik zu Versinken in seinen schönsten und/oder auch emotional einfühlsamsten Gedanken. Brillant! Danke.”

Can’t wait until our paths cross again (and I promise I’ll have worked more on my German by then)…

Vielen Dank,

Gillian

Zach and Jim’s songs can be found here.

If you’re free Tuesday night and in the city of lights, drop by the Tennessee Jazz Bar around 9 PM. I’m hoping to finish some new material over the weekend and test-drive some songs!

Details here and on the Shows page:

September 29th: Paris, France
Tennessee Jazz Club
12 Rue André Mazet
75006 Paris
9 PM (21h)

I’ll miss this town for many reasons, including the fact that THIS happens twice a week:

pari_roller

What you’re watching are several thousand Parisian rollerbladers taking over the streets of Paris Friday night. It’d kind of like that bicycle takeover in Philly, only these guys get an official police escort to help divert traffic – twice a week! If you ever plan on visiting Paris with your rollerblades, visit Pari-Roller.com for the scoop. Suggested listening: Adrien Reju’s rendition of “Brand New Key” from her album A Million Hearts.

audience view of the Marina Stage

First off, the band sounded just fantastic and I was so proud to be sharing the stage with such fine musicians. Ross Bellenoit, Matt Scarano, Ryan Kuhns and I have been working together as a quartet for nearly a year now and I was very sorry to have to leave my Idling Ferraris behind, but very proud of how far we’ve come as a group. I sorely miss their support and creativity when I play over here, but am excited to come back with a bunch of new songs to throw at them when I get back!

There was some exceptional, above-and-beyond fan lovin’ that took place at the festival. Francesca and Erika had me do sharpie body-art (see photo documentation). Special thanks also goes out to Adam, Dorothy, and Elliot – the cool kids from Lancaster who chatted a while and made me feel like a million bucks.

Erika getting inked!

I was just delighted that my longtime harp teacher and dear friend, Janet Witman, was able to make my last State-side performance, and was tickled later to see someone tweeted about the shout-out moment.

There are some more pictures up on my flickr account if you’re interested, and Bekah Larson also wrote a very nice review of the performance for the XPN All About the Music Blog, which you should check out here.

Thanks to everyone who came out and tuned in to share this very special afternoon with me!

Set List: July 26th, Wiggins Park, Camden Waterfront, NJ
Pulse
Silken String
Summer
The Canonization of Margot Price
No Answer
The Mark
August

Frencesca